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Subject: black.2of3 this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap on one end. 3. Insert a compound detonator just beneath the surface of the explosive and screw the other end cap on with a hole drilled through for the fuse. 4. The pipe can be pre-filled with sawdust. When ready for use, simply pour in the nitromethane, then detonate. Nitromethane/Ammonium Nitrate Explosive Sec. I, No. 34 A moist explosve can be made from solid ammonium nitrate fertilizer combined with liquid nitromethane. This explosive has both high power and high brisance and can be used as a direct substitute for TNT. This explosive can be readily detonated by a blasting cap, No. 6 in strength. A compound detonator is not required. Materials Sources --------- ------- Ammonium nitrate fertilizer (not less than Farm or feed store, or chemical 32% nitrogen) or pure supply house Nitromethane Hobby stores, chemical supply house measuring container mixing container storage container w/ tight lid Two flat boards (same as No. 30) Blasting cap (No. 6) Procedure --------- 1. Spread a handful at a time of the fertilizer on the large flat board and rub vigirously with the other board or rolling pin until the large particles are crushed into a fine powder that looks like flour (approx. 10 minutes per handful) Note: Proceed with steps 2 and 3 as soon as possible, since the powder may moisture from the air and become spoiled. 2. To produce the explosive, all that is required is to pour 1 part by volume or 2 parts by weight of nitromethane into 3 parts by volume or 5 parts by weight of powdered ammonium nitrate. Stir until completely mixed, then store in a sealed container until ready to use. 3. Another effective method in producing the explosive is to tightly pre-pack a selected charge container with powdered ammonium nitrate. When ready to use, simply pour the pre-measured amount of nitromethane into the ammonium nitrate and allow to soak in for 3 to 5 minutes before using. Note: An important factor to observe when pouring the nitromethane into the ammonium nitrate is to not allow the ammonium nitrate to be disturbed after it has been soaked with nitromethane. Whenever a liquid is poured into a powdered substance, a natural "caking action" will result, producing a fairly uniform density throughout the solid material. Since uniform density has a direct overall effect of the explosive performance, it is important to first pre-pack a rigid container with ammonium nitrate and then pour in the nitromethane and allow to soak without stirring. This will produce a high performance explosive. Mixing in a plastic bag will produce a low performance explosive. How to Use ---------- 1. This explosive is one of the most powerful/brisant two component explosives readily available. Each component is perfectly safe to handle by itself. However, when the two are mixed together, they form a sensitive high explosive that can be detonated with a standard blasting cap. 2. This explosive mixture should be used to defeat hard targets, such as steel and reinforced concrete. It can also be used with special charges that require high brisance, i.e., shaped charges, platter charges, and SCIMP charges. Nitromethane Liquid explosive Sec. I, No. 35 A liquid explosive, that resembles water in appearance, can be made from nitromethane and aqueous ammonia (household glass cleaner). This exposive is 22 to 24 more powerful that military TNT and can be detonated with a standard blasting cap. However, to achieve maximum velocity, a compound detonator should be used. Materials Sources --------- ------- Nitromethane chemical supply or hooby store (racing fuel) Aniline, ethylenediamine, aqueous ammonia Hardware stores, chemical (non-detergent) supply, grocery store measuring container (cup, pint, etc.) blasting cap or compound detonator Procedure --------- Note: Nitromethane is a common chemical reagent, and under normal conditions cannot be made to detonate even if a strong detonator is used. However, if certain ammonia-containing compounds (called sensitizers) are alled in small percentages (5-6 %), then the sensitized nitromethane can be detonated with a standard #8 blasting cap. The most effective sensitizers are aniline and ethylenediamine. The most readily available sensitizer is common household glass cleaner (aqueous ammonia). 1. To produce the explosive, simply pour the sensitizer into the nitromethane and mix thoroughly. One-half pic sensitizer will sensitize one gallon of nitromethane. 2. The explosive can be premixed, or for safety's sake, it can be mixed just prior to use by prefilling a charge container with nitromethane and then adding the sensitizer when ready to detonate. How to Use ---------- 1. This liquid explosive can be used whenever or wherever a liquid can be used for disguiseability. It can be poured directly into prefabricated special charge containers, i.e., shape charges, platter charges, and SCIMP charges, without special measures being taken to maintain uniform densities required for solid explosives to be effective. 2. To obtain the maximum efficiency, a compound detonator should be used for initiation. Reliability of initiation is increased by positioning and immersing the detonator centrally with respect to the wall of the container. By centrally positioning and immersing the detonator in the liquid, the output energy of the detonator is transmitted to the explosive instead of being partially dissipated through the wall of the container. do dont "-" = cap | - | -| | | - | -| | | - | -| | +++++++ +++++++ Fertilizer/hydrazine liquid explosive Sec. I, No. 36 A liquid explosive can be made from solid ammonium nitrate fertilizer combined with liquid anhydrous hydrazine. This liquid explosive is more powerful and brisant than C4 plastic explosive and can be used as a direct replacement for C4. This explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap. However, to achieve maximum velocity a compound detonator should be used. Materials Sources --------- ------- Ammonium nirtate fertilizer (not less than farm or feed store or 32% nitrogen) chemical supply store anhydrous hydrazine chemical supply house large mixing container glass stirring rod storage container blasting cap, compound detonator Procedure --------- Note: Anhydrous hydrazine is classified as as corrosive and is flammable. Keep away from spark or flame. It is also mildly toxic and should be handled in well ventilated areas. Affected areas of skin should be washed with large quantities of water. 1. Pour into the mixing container an amount of anhydrous hydrazine equal to the amount of explosive required. 2. Ammonium nitrate (prilled or powdered) is then added, a teaspoon at a time, to the hydrazine in the mixing container. Note: The mixing container should be fairly large (5x the volume of the hydrazine) because the chemical reaction between the ammonium nitrate and the hydrazine is extremely effervescent and can easily bubble over the top. 3. Because of the effervescent reaction, the ammonium nitrate should be added very slowly so as not to create accidental over-flowing. With each addition of ammonium nitrate, the person doing the mixing should wait for the initial reaction to subside, then stir the solution until all of the ammonium nitrate dissolves into it. Note: The reaction between the ammonium nitrate and hydrazine liberates large volumes of poisonous gas. The person doing the mixing should be upwind of the mixing process so as not to breath the poisonous fumes. 4. The mixing process is continued until the ammonium nitrate no longer dissolves into the solution, even after five minutes of stirring, and a small amount reamains undissolved at the bottom of the mixing container. This undissolved ammonium nitrate does not affect the performance of the explosive. 5. After the mixing process is complete, what will remain will be a clear liquid explosive more powerful and brisant that any military explosive. Note: The mixed explosive has a lower toxicity of the hydrazine. However, it is recommended that the same handling precautions be observed. 6. To make an even more powerful explosive, 20% aluminum powder (100 mesh or finer) can be added to the ammonium nitrate before mixing with the hydrazine (it does not react with the other two ingredients), or ir can be added after the mixing process is complete. How to Use ---------- 1. This explosive is the most powerful/brisant of the two complement explosive systems available. It can be used whenever or wherever a liquid can be used for disguiseability. 2. It can be poured directly into prefabricated special charge containers, i.e., shape, platter and SCIMP charges, without special measures being taken to maintain uniform densities required by solid explosives to be effective. 3. It has unique absorption and retention poperties which can be used to create a liquid land mine. The liquid explosive can be poured directly into the ground, soaking into and blending with the surrounding earth. The pocket of explosive can be initiated by a conventional electrically or mechanically actuated detonator. These pockets of explosives have remained detonable for four days in the ground, even when the soil was soaked due to rainy weather. /----wet explosive in ground. ____________ / ____________ \ \_/ </ / \ _____/____ \_______/ \-detonator placed here Explosive paper Sec I, No. 37 An excellent absorption explosive can be made from a solution of PETN (the center filler of detonator cord), acetone, and mineral oil. When any non-gloss paper, i.e., newspaper, paperback books, corrugated cardboard, etc., is dipped in this explosive solution and then removed and allowed to dry, the paper will retain its original texture and appearance along with a microcrystaline high explosive incorporated into the fiber content of the paper. This produces a disguised explosive that can be carried into a target area without arousing suspicion. Materials Sources --------- ------- PETN detonating cord (primacord) Acetone hardware stores mineral oil drug stores mixing container pan or bucket larger than the mixing container large, flat pan, (cake pan) sheets of newspaper, paperback books, corrugated cardboard, etc. Procedure --------- 1. Using a razor blade, cut detonating cord lengthwise and remove the center filler (P.E.T.N.). Approx. .5 lb. of PETN can be removed per 100 ft. of detonating cord. 2. Fill a canning jar 2/3 full of acetone and heat until mildly warm by placing the canning jar in a pan or bucket on heat source when it contains the canning jar. 3. Add PETN to the acetone, a tablespoon a a time, while stirring with a stirring rod. Stir the solution until the PETN dissolves. Add more PETN until it no longer dissolves into solution, even after five minutes of stirring. Approx. 1/3 lb. of PETN will dissolve in every lb. of warm acetone used. 4. Approx. 2% mineral should be added to the final solution. This mineral oil will prevent the crystals of PETN from recrystalizing to a noticeable size when the acetone evaporates. The mineral oil will also provide a better texture to the paper when it is dry after the soaking process. 5. Pout this solution into a large, flat pam, then fill the pan with even sheets of a non gloss paper. It rolled newspaper is used, unroll it and lay it out evenly in the an. Allow the paper to soak for 30 minutes. 6. After soaking for 30 minutes, remove the paper and allow to dry for at least 24 hours. DO NOT DRY IN AN OVEN. After the papr has had time to dry, 50 % of its weight will consist of a microcrystaline high explosive intimately incorporated into the fiber content of the paper. How to Use ---------- 1. To use simply insert a blasting cap ot compound detonator into the paper and detonate. 2. If a rolled newspaper is used, the detonator and fusing mechanism can be concealed in the center of the roll and easily carried into the target area and left where destruction is desired. An average size newspaper has the explosive equivalent of several sticks of dynamite. RDX Sec. I, No. 38 RDX is a powerful/brisant high explosive that can be made from hexamethylenetetramine and strong nitric acid. It can be used as a booster explosive for compound detonators, as a main explosive filler, and for the manufacture of explosive flour (Sec. I, No. 39) Materials Sources --------- ------- Hexamethylenetetramine (hexamine) Drug stores under names of urotropine, hexamin, methenamine, etc. strong nitric acid (d 1.50) Sec. I, No. 4 Acetone drug store weighing scale with at least gram accuracy or measuring spoons graduated cylinder (cc or ml) or measuring cups thermometer 20 degrees - 100 degrees C or 68 degrees - 212 degrees F several large quart canning jars two large basins or bowls made of metal or other similar material that can be heated paper towels Procedure --------- 1. Place .5 cup, 120 ml or cc of nitrix acid in a large canning jar and bring the temperature to between 20 and 30 degrees C. (68-86 F) By putting the jar in a basin of cold water. If necessary, swirl the canning jar around the basin of cold water to bring the temperature down, while being careful not to allow any water to splash into the acid. Note: Maintain the thermometer in the acid throughout the reaction while carefully noting and controlling the temperature by alternating the jar between the basin of cold water and the basin of hot water. The thermometer can be used as a stirring rod if the solution is gently stirred. 2. Weigh or measure out 70 grams by weight, 18 teaspoons by volume, of the hexamine and start adding the salt-like hexamine slowly, 1/2 teaspoon at a time, during a 15 minute period. Maintain the temp. between 20 - 30 degrees C, while stirring gently with the thermometer. Control the temp. by dipping the canning jar in and out of the basin filled with cold water. 3. When all of the hexamine is dissolved in the acid, heat the solution to 55 degrees C, by placing the canning jar in a bsin of hot water. Maintain tis temperature for about 10 minutes. 4. After heating the solution for 10 minutes, remove the canning jar from the basin of cold water and place it in the basin of cold water. Cool the canning jar to 20 degrees C. (68 degrees F). 5. When the temperature has reached 20 degrees C, add 3 cups (750 ml) of cold water to the solution and a white salt will appear. Note: The white salt is RDX and should be handled with great care from now on. 6. Filter the acid/water/RDX solution through a paper towel covering the mouth of another jar. 7. Wash the RDX crystals off the paper towel and into a canning jar, using an additional 3 cups of fresh, cold water. Add a teaspoon of sodium carbonate to neutralize the acid and stir rapidly for 2-3 minutes, then filter again. 8. The crude product can be dried out on the paper towel filter. It is suitable for fairly immediate use, or it can be purified. 9. To purify RDX, fill a quart canning jar 2/3 full of acetone. Heat the acetone by placing the jar in a basin of hot simmering water, then add RDX, a tablespoon at a time, until it completely dissolves in the acetone. 10. After the maximem amount of RDX has been dissolved into the hot acetone, allow the solution to cool to room temperature, then let stand for one more hour. 11. The RDX will form a salt once again. Filter the RDX and spread it out on a paper towel as before. 12. The purified RDX should be stored in a clean canning jar with a tight fitting lid. It can be stored for months without loss of effectiveness. Note: RDX is not too sensitive to heat and shock, but is fairly sensitive to friction. Care should therefore be taken when the explosive is to be packed or when the dry explosive is handled. Using the amounts of chemicals listed in this article, the yield of RDX should be about 1/5 oz. Explosive Flour Sec. I, No. 39 An explosive that looks and bakes like ordinary wheat flour can be made from a mixture flour and RDX. It can be used in many different forms as an explosive: in its dry powder form, moistened with water and used as a dough like plastic explosive, or by using special recipes it can be baked into pancakes or bisuits. Materials Sources --------- ------- RDX Sec. I, No. 15 Sec. I, No. 38 Flour grocery store large sheet of wood, and a rolling pin (wood must be flat) Procedure --------- 1. Place a tablespoonful of RDX crystals on the large sheet of wood. Using a rolling pic, crush the crystals into a fine powder, the consistency of flour. Note: Use only a rolling pic, not a block of wood. It is important to crush the RDX crystals into a fine powder rather than using friction between to rubbing surfaces. 2. Mix 80% by weight of powdered RDX with 20% by weight of flour in a canning jar with a tight fitting lid by shaking for five minutes. 3. The mixed explosive flour can be stored in the sealed mixing conainer for long periods of time before using. It can also be disguised by storing it in an original bag of flour. How to Use ---------- 1. This explosive flour is more powerful and brisant that military TNT and is easiest to detonate in its powdered form. A standard blasting cap provides sufficient shock to set it off. 2. To use as a plastic explosive, mix 4 parts by weight of flour to 1 part by weight of water. This forms a dough that has very desirable plastic qualities which can be used to mold itself around vertain types of targets in the same manner as military C4 plastic explosive. A compound detonator must be use to insure positive detonation. 3. The following recipes make it possible to bake the powdered explosive into pancakes or biscuits: A. For pancakes, use this recipe: 3 cups explosive flour 2 teaspoons of baking powder .5 teaspoon of salt 1 cup of milk 1 egg 2 tablespoons of melted lard Note: This pancake mixture can be left of the griddle until it completely chars with no unusual effects, thus demonstrating the stability of the mixture to heat. B. For explosive biscuits, use this recipe: 3 cups explosive flour 2 teaspoons of baking powder 3/8 teaspoon of salt 2 teaspoons of lard 88 ml or cc of water 4. The finished pancakes and biscuits look, feel, and taste like ordinary pancakes and biscuits. However, they are highly toxic, and SHOULD NOT BE EATEN. Before using these baked items as an explosive, they must be moistened and kneaded into a plastic masss to remove the air spaces. They may be exploded in the same manner as the plastic form. Pipe Hand Grenade Sec. II, No. I Hand grenades can be made from a piece of iron pipe. The filler can be plastic or granular military explosive, improvised explosive, or propellant from shotgunn or small arms ammunition. Materials Sources --------- ------- Iron pipe, threaded ends, 1.5" to 3" in diameter, 3" to 8" long 2 end caps explosive or propellant nonelectric blasting cap (comm. or military) fuse cord hand drill pliers Procedure --------- 1. Place blasting cap on one end of fuse cord and crimp with pliers. Note: To find out how long the fuse cord should be, check the time it takes for a known length of fuse to burn. If 12 inches burns in 30 seconds, a six inch cord will ignite the grenade in 15 seconds. 2. Screw pipe cap to one end of pipe. Place fuse cord with blasting cap into the opposite end so that the blasting cap is near the center of the pipe. Note: If plastic explosive is to be used, fill pipe before inserting blasting cap. Push a round stick into the center of the exlosive to make a hole and then insert blasting cap. 3. Pour exlposive or propellant into pipe a little at a time. Tap the base of the pipe frequently to settle filter. 4. Drill a hole in the center of the unassembled pipe cap large enough for the fuse cord to pass through. 5. Wipe pipe threads to remove any filler material. Slide the drilled pipe cap over the fuse and screw handtight onto pipe. Nail Grenade Sec. II, No. 2 Effective fragmentation grenades can be made from a block of TNT or other blasting explosive and nails. Materials Sources --------- ------- Block of TNT or other blasting explosive Nails Non-electric military blasting cap fuse cord tap, string, wire or glue Procedure --------- 1. If an explosive charge other than a standard TNT block is used, make a hole in the center of the charge for inserting the blasting cap. TNT can be drilled with relative safety. With plastic explosives, a hole can be made by pressing a round stick into the center of the charge. The hole should be deep enough that the blasting cap is totally within the explosive. 2. Tape, tie or glue on or two rows of closely packed nails to sides of explosive block. Nails should completely cover the four surfaces of the block. 3. Place blasting cap on one end of the fuse cord and crimp with pliers. Note: Use same method in Sec. II, No. 1 to determine burning lengths of fuse. 4. Insert the blasting cap in the hole in the block of explosive. Tape or tie fuse cord securly in place so that it will not fall out when the grenade is thrown. Alternate Use ------------- An effective directional anti-personnel mine can be made by placing nails on only one side of the explosive block. For this case, an electric blasting cap should be used. Wine Bottle Cone Charge Sec. II, No. 3 This cone charge will penetrate 3 to 4 in. of armor. Placed on an engine conpartment, it will disable a tank or other vehicle beyond immediate repair. Materials Sources --------- ------- Glass wine bottle with cone shaped false bottom Plastic or castable explosive blasting cap gasoline or kerosene (small amount) string adhesive tape Procedure --------- 1. Soak a piece of string in gasoline or kerosene. Double wrap this string around the wine bottle approx. 3 in. above the top of the cone. Note: Adding a small amount of motor oil to the gasoline or kerosene will improve results. 2. Ignite the string and allow to burn for 1 to 2 minutes. Then plunge the bottle into cold water to crack it. The top half can now be easily removed and discarded. 3. If plastic explosive is used: A. Pack explosive into the bottle a little at a time compressing with a wooden rod. Fill the bottle up to the top. B. Press a .25 in. wooden dowel .5 in into the middle of the top of the explosive charge to form a hole for the blasting cap. 4. If TNT or other castable explosive is used: A. Break explosive into small pieces using a wooden mallet or non- sparking metal tools. Place pieces in a tin can. B. Suspend this can in a larger container which is partly filled with water. A stiff wire or stick pushed through the smaller can will accomplish this. Note: The inner can must not rest on the bottom of the outer container. C. Heat the containr on a electric hot plate or other heat source. Stir the explosive frequently with a wooden stick while it is melting. Note: Keep area well ventilated while melting explosive. Fumes may be poisonous. D. When all the explosive has melted, remove the inner container and stir the molten explosive until it begins to thicken. Diring this time the bottom half of the wine bottle should be placed in the container of hot water. This will pre-heat the bottle so that it will not crack whenthe explosive is poured. E. Remove the bottle from how water and dry thoroughly. Pour molten explosive into the bottle and allow to cool. The crust which forms on top of the charge during cooling should be broken with a wooden stick and more explosive added. Do this as often as necessary until the bottle is filled to the top. F. When explosive has completely hardened, bore a hole for the blasting cap in the middle of the top of the charge about .5 in. deep. How to Use ---------- 1. Place blasting cap in the hole in the top of the charge. If non-electric blasting cap is used, be sure cap is crimped around fuze and fuze is long enough to provide safe delay. 2. Place the charge so that the bottom is 3-4 in. from the target. This can be done by taping legs to the charge or any other convenient means as long as there is nothing between the base of the charge and the target. 3. If electric blasting cap is used, connect blasting wires to firing circuit. Note: The effectiveness of this charge can be increased by placing it inside a can, box, or similar container and packing sand or dirt between the charge and the container. Grenade/Tin can land mine Sec. II, No. 4 This device can be used as a land mine that will explode when the trip wire is pulled. Materials Sources --------- ------- Hand grenade having side safety lever Sturdy container, open at one end, that is just large enough to slip over the grenade and its safety lever. Strong string or wire Procedure --------- 1. Fasten one piece of string to the closed end of the container, making a strong connection. This can be done by punching 2 holes in the can, looping through them, and tying a knot. 2. Tie free end of this string to bush, stake, fencepost, etc. 3. Fasten another length of string to the grenade such that it cannot interfere with the functioning of the ignition mechanism of the grenade. 4. Insert grenade into container. 5. Lay free length of string across path and fasten to stake, bush, etc. The string should remain taught. stake container w/ grenade stake _______ | trip wire | | |------------------------------------ |------------------| | ______| | How to Use ---------- 1. Carefully withdraw safety pin by pulling on ring. Be sure safety lever is restrained during this position during this operation. Grenade will function in normal manner when trip wire is pulled. Note: In area where concealment is possible, a greater effect may be obtained by suspending the grenade several feet above ground, as illustrated below (yuk) \ \ | | \ \ | | \ \ | tree | |\ \| | | \ | | | \| | | | | _|_ | | Grenade -> | | | | |___| | | | | | | | | stake trip wire | | | |----------------------------------------------/\ | | | / \------------- knot Mortar Scrap mine Sec. II, No. 5 A directional mine that can be placed in the path of advancing troops. Materials Sources --------- ------- Iron pipe, appprox. 3 ft. in length and 2-4 Scrapyard, steel company in. in diameter and threaded on at least Salvaged artillery case one end Threaded cap to fit pipe black powder or salvaged artillery powder (.5 lb total) Electrical igniter (commercial SQUIB or improvised ignitor from Sec. VI, No. 1. Safety or improvised fuse may also be used Small stones, about 1 in. in diameter or small size scap; about 1 lb. total rags for wadding, each 20 in. x 20 in. paper or bag battery and wire stick (non-metallic) Note: Be sure pipe has no cracks or flaws Procedure --------- 1. Screw threaded cap onto pipe. 2. Place propellant and igniter in paper or rag and tie package with string so contents will not fall out. 3. Insert packaged propellant and igniter into pipe until package rests against threaded cap leaving firing leads extending from open end of pipe. 4. Roll rag until it is about 6 in. long and the same diameter as pipe. Insert rag wadding against packaged propellant ignitor. With caution, pack tightly using stick. 5. Insert stones and/or scrap metal into pipe. 6. Insert second piece of rag wadding against stones and/or metal scrap. pack tightly as before. explosive stones/scrap firing leads rags rags ------------------------------------------------ |XXXXXX:::::::::(*&(*()(*&::::::::::::\\\\\\\\\\\ |XXXXXX:::::::::()&*%%^$*)::::::::::::\\\\\\\\\\\\\ ------------------------------------------------ \\ \\ How to Use ---------- 1. Bury pipe in ground with open end facing the expected path of the enemy. The open end may be covered with cardboard and a thin layer of dist or leaves as camoflage. 2. Connect firing leads to battery and switch. Mine can be remotely fired when needed or attached to a trip device placed in path of advancing troops. Note: A NON-ELECTRICAL ignition system can be substituted for the electrical system as follows: 1. Follow above procedure, substituting safety fuse for igniter. 2. Light safety fuse when ready to fire. Coke bottle shaped charge Sec.II, No. 2 This shaped charge will penetrate 3 in. of armor. It will disable a vehicle if placed on the engine or engine compartment. Materials --------- Glass coke bottle 6.5 oz. size plastic or castable explosive, about 1 lb. blasting cap metal cylinder, open at both ends, about 6 in. long and 2 in. inside diameter (should be heavy walled for best results) plug to fit mouth of coke bottle (rags, metal, wood, paper, etc.) Non-metal rod about .25 in. in diameter and 8 in. or more in length tape or string 2 tin cans if castable explosive is used (see Sec. II, No. 3) Procedure --------- 1. Place plug in mouth of bottle. 2. Place cylinder over top of bottle until bottom of cyliner rests of widest part of bottle. Tape cylinder to bottle. Container should be straight on top of bottle. 3. If plastic explosive is used: A. Place explosive in cylinder a little at a time tamping with rod until cylinder is full. B. Press the rod about .5 in. into the middle of the top of the exlosive charge to form a hole for the blasting cap. 4. If castable explosive is use, follow procedure of Wine Bottle cone charge, Sec. II, No. 3, step 4, a thru f. How to Use ---------- Method 1. If electrical cap is used. 1. Place blasting cap in hole in top of explosive. Note: Do not insert cap until ready to detonate the charge. 2. Place bottom of coke bottle flush against the target. If target is not flat and horizontal, fasten bottle to target by any conveneint means, such as by placing tape or string around target and top of bottle. Bottom of bottle acts as stand-off. Note: Be sure that base of bottle is flush against target and that there is nothing between the target and the base of the bottle. 3. Connect leads from blasting cap to firing circuit. Method II. If non-electrical cap is used. 1. Crimp cap around fuse. Note: Be sure there is enough fuse to allow a safe delay. 2. Follow steps 1, 2 and Notes of Method I. 3. Light fuse when ready to fire. Cyndrilical Cavity shaped charge Sec. II, No. 7 A shaped charge can be made from common pipe. It will penetrate 1.5 in of steel, producing a hole 1.5 in in diameter. Materials --------- Ir on or steel pipe, 2 to 2.5 in. in diameter and 3 to 4 in. long. Metal pipe, .5 to .75 in in diameter and 1.5 in. long, open at both ends. Pipe should be as thin as possible. Blasting cap Non-metallic rod, .25 in. in diameter Plastic or castable explosive 2 metal cans of different sizes ------| | stick or wire | only if castable explosive is used | heat source ------| Procedure --------- 1. If plastic explosive us used: A. Place larger pipe on flat surface. Hand pack and tamp explosive into pipe. Leave approx. .25 in. space at the top. B. Place rod in center of explosive. Enlarge hole in explosive to diameter and length of small pipe. C. Insert small pipe into hole. Note: Make sure that there is direct contact between the explosive and the small pipe. Hand pack if necessary. D. Make sure that there is .25in. empty space aboce small pipe. Remove pipe if necessary. E. Turn large pipe upside down, (the whole object) and pus rod .5 in. into center of opposite end of explosive to form a hole for the blasting cap. Note: Do not insert cap until ready to fire shaped charge. 2. If TNT or other castable explosive is used: A. Follow procedure, Sec. II, No. 3, step 4, Parts A, B, C, including Notes. B. When all explosive has melted, remove the inner container and stir the molten explosive until it begins to thicken. C. Place large pipe of flat surface. Pour explosive into pipe until it is 1.75 in. from the top. D. Place small pipe in the center of large pipe so that it rests on top of exlosive. Holding small pipe in place, pour explosive around small pipe until explosive is .25 in. from top of large pipe. E. Allow explosive to cool. Break crust that forms on top of the charge during cooling with a wooden stick and add more explosive. Do this as often as necessary until explosive is .25 in. from top. F. When explosive has completely hardened, turn pipe upside down and bore a hole for the blasting cap in the middle of the top of the charge about .50 in. deep. How to Use ---------- Method I. If an electrical cap is used. 1. Place blasting cap in hole made for it. Note: Do not insert cap until ready to use. 2. Place other end of pipe flush against target. Fasten pipe to target by any convenient means, such as by placing tape or string around target and on top of pipe. If target is not flat and horizontal. Note: Be sure that base of pipe is flush against target and that there is nothing between the charge and the base of the pipe. 3. Connect leads from cap to firing circuit. Method II. If non-electrical cap is used. 1. Crimp cap around fuse. Note: Be sure that there is enough fuse to allow safe delay. 2. Follow steps 1, 2 and notes of Method I. 3. Light fuse when ready to fire. Funnel shaped charge Sec. II, No. 9 An effective shaped charge can be made using various commercial funnels. See table for penetration capabilities. Materials --------- Container (sode or beer can, etc.), approx. 2.5 in. in diameter x 5 in. long Funnels (glass, steel or aluminum) 2.5 in. in diameter Wooden rod or stick, .25 in. in diameter tape blasting cap (electrical or non-electrical) sharp cutting edge explosive Procedure --------- 1. Remove the top and bottom from can and discard. 2. Cut off and throw away the spout of the funnel(s). Note: When using 3 funnels (see table), place the modified funnels together as tight and as straight as possible. Tape the funnels together at the outer ridges. 3. Place the funnels in the modified can. Tape outer ridges to hold funnels to can. 4. If plastic explosive is used, fill the can with the explosive using small quantities, and tamp with wooden rod or stick. Note: If castable explosive is used, refer to step 4 of Sec. II, No. 3. 5. Cut wodden rod to lengths 3 inches longer than the standoff length. (see table) Position three of there rods around the explosive filled can and hold in place with tape. Note: The position of the rods on the container must conform to the standoff dimensions to obtain the penetrations given in the table. ________________ _ | | | | <-|----explosive 3| --| |-- i| - | /\ | - rods (legs) held on with tape n| - | / \ | - | - | / funnel \ | - - - |/____________\| - - - - - | - - - - - - - ^ |>standoff Table Funnel Material | No. of funnels | Standoff (ins.) | Penetration | ------------------------------------------------------------------ | | | | | | glass | 1 | 3.5 | 4 | | | | | | |----------------------------------------------------------------- | | | | | | steel | 3 | 1 | 2.5 | | | | | | |----------------------------------------------------------------- | | | | | | aluminum | 3 | 3.5 | 2.5 | | | | | | |----------------------------------------------------------------- | If only one steel or aluminum funnel is available: | |----------------------------------------------------------------- | | | | | | steel | 1 | 1 | 1.5 | | | | | | |----------------------------------------------------------------- | | | | | | aluminum | 1 | 1 | 1.5 | | | | | | |----------------------------------------------------------------- 6. Make a hole for blasting cap in the center of the explosive with rod or stick. Note: Do not place blasting cap in place until the funnel shaped charge is ready to use. How to Use ---------- 1. Place blasting cap in the hole in top of the charge. If non-electric cap is used, be sure cap is crimped around fuse and fuse is long enough to provide safe delay. 2. Place (tape if necessary) the Funnel Shaped Charge on the target so that nothing is between the base of charge and target. 3. If electric cap is used, connect cap wires to firing circuit. Linear shaped Charge Sec. II, No. 10 This shaped charge made from construction materials will cut through nearly 3 inches of armor depending opon the liner used. (see table) Materials --------- Standard structural angle or pipe (see table) wood or cardboard container hacksaw -----| | only is pipe is used vise -----| wooden rod, .25 in. in diameter explosive blasting cap tape Table | Type | material | liner size | Standoff | Penetration| ------------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------| | angle | steel | 3x3 legs x | 2 in. | 2.75 in | | | | .25 in web | | | |-----------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------| | angle | aluminum | 2x2 legs x | 5.5 in. | 2.5 in. | | | | 3/16 web | | | |-----------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------| | pipe half | aluminum | 2 diameter | 2 in. | 2 in. | | section | | | | | |-----------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------| |pipe half | copper | 2 diameter | 1 in. | 1.75 in. | |section | | | | | |-----------|-----------------|-------------|------------|------------| Procedure --------- Note: These were the only linear shaped charges of this type that were found to be more efficient than the ribbon charge. Ribbon Charge: No standoff; just place on target. 1. If pipe is used: A. Place the pipe in the vise and cut pipe in half lengthwise. Remove the pipe half sections from the vise. B. Discard one of the pipe half sections, or save for another charge. 2. Place angle or pipe half section with open end face down on a flat surface. 3. Make container from any material available. The container must be as wide as the angle or pipe half section, twice as high, and as long as the desired cut to be made with the charge. 4. Place container over the liner (angle or pipe half section) and tape liner to container. 5. If plastic explosive is used, fill the container with the explosive ising small quantities, and tamp with wooden rod or stick. Note: If castable explosive is used, refer to step 4 of Sec. II, No. 3. 6. Cut wooden rod to lengths 2 inches longer than the standoff length (see table). Postition the rods at the corners of the explosive filled container and hold in place with tape. Note: The position of the rods on the container must conform to standoff and penetration dimensions given in the table. 7. Make a hole for blasting cap in the side od the container .5 in. above the liner and centered with the wooden rod. Note: Do not place blasting cap inside Linear Shaped Charge until ready to detonate. How to Use ---------- 1. Place blasting cap into hole on the side of the container. If non-electric cap is used, be sure cap is crimped around fuse and fuse is long enough. 2. Place (tape if necessary) the LSC on the target so that nothing is between base of charge and target. 3. If electric cap is used, connect cap wires to firing circuit. Soap Dish charges Sec. II, No. 11 Using common plastic soap dishes, two special charges can be prepared. One is a miniature claymore mine, and the other being a miniature Pertoleum Oil/Liquid charge for the destruction of small P.O.L. storage containers and vehicle gas tanks. Materials --------- Soap dishes consisting of two separate halves, the bottom flat half fitting into the to bevelled half (standard soap dish) Any homemade high explosive blasting cap .25 in. diameter steel ball bearings and epoxy resin (wristrocket ammo) theremite incediary (Sec. V, No. 20), or other metalized incediary mixture small alnico 5 horseshoe or double sided adhesive tape, or both Procedure --------- 1. To produce a miniature claymore mine, follow the steps below. A. Separate the two halves of the soap dish. B. Fill the bottom half with any powerful homemade explosive. C. Fill the top half to a depth of 3/4 inch with 1/4 inch diameter steel ball bearings held together with a light coating of epoxy resin. D. Insert the bottom half into the top half and secure in place with tape. 2. To produce a miniature P.O.L. charge, follow the steps below: A. Separate the two halves of the soap dish. B. Fill 1/2 inch of the bottom half with a metalized incendiary such as thermite or aluminum granules. C. Fill the remaining half of the bottom half with any powerful homemade explosvie. D. Fill 1/2 to the top half with the same homemade explosive. E. Insert the bottom half of the soap dish into the top half and secure in place with tape. How to Use ---------- 1. Claymore mine: A. Cover the bottom of the bottom half of the mine with double-sided adhesive tape or attach one horseshoe magnet to each side of the top half and secure in place with epoxy resin. Both attachment methods can be combined so the mine can be attached to almost any surface area. B. Using a sharp pointed rod, 1/4 inch in diameter, puncture a hole in the rear center of the bottom half. C. Insert a detonator into this hole and attach a fuzing mechanism to the sides of the soap dish and connect to the detonator. D. Attach the bottom of the soap dish, vertically, to any surface facing the target area, within a 45 degree angle from either side of the center line of the soap dish. For attachment, use either the tape or magnets, or both if possible. 2. P.O.L. charge: A. Cover the bottom of the bottom half of the mine with double sided adhesive tap, or attach one horseshoe magnet to each side of the top half and secure in place with epoxy resin. Both attachment methods can be combined so the mine can be easily be attached to almost any surface area. B. Using a sharp pointed rod, 1/4 inch in diameter, puncture a hole in the rear certer of the top half of the soap dish. C. Insert the detonator into this hole and attach a fuzing mechanism to sides of the soap dish and connect to the detonator. D. Using magnets, tape, or both, attach the bottom of the soap dish to any surface containing petroleum products, i.e., 55 gallon storage drums, rail and truck P.O.L. shipping cars, gas tanks of vehicles, etc. Mini-Compound detonators Sec. II, No. 12 Miniature compound detonators can be made from empty .22 Magnum sheel casings, a quantity of secondary (booster) explosive, a smaller quantity of primary explosive, an ignition charge and a loading press. These powerful miniature detonators are used in the construction of various type of miniature hand grenades, i.e., cigarette lighter hand grenade, shotgun shell impact grenade and explosive candles. Materials --------- Empty .22 magnum shell casings or copper, brass or aluminum tubing 1/4 inch in diameter, 1 inch long, and closed at one end. A quantity of secondary explosive, i.e., RDX (Sec. I, No. 15) or (Sec. I, No. 38), PETN (the center filling of Primacord (detonating cord) A quantity of primary explosive, i.e., mercury fulminate (Sec. I, No. 24), HMTD (Sec. I, No. 17), acetone peroxide (Sec. I, No. 28) An ignition charge or either black powder (Sec. I, No. 3) or small arms propellant A loading press, or materials to construct a loading press as illustrated Procedure --------- 1. If a loading press is not available, construct on as illustrated below: (this is going to be touchy, please stick with me) 5 feet |--------------------------------------------------------| _ metal plate for slot | | 6 ins. \ | | <- 1 inch thick wooden barricade |-------| \ | | _ \ _| | /> slot for lever /- 2x4 __| |__________________|| |/_______________________________ / wooden |_|o|___________________ ________________________________|| lever | | | -| | o--------- | | 2 || | ___peep hole | | | | |-|_/ (safety glass) | | | _ /1 |-| | _| |_ ___ / _| |_ | |_____| |_|_| |_____| | /-------------^--------------------\ | <- Rope |_____________|____________________| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | <-table | | | detonator | | __|__ |_| |_| weight-> |___| Notes: 1. Block- wood (10" x 10" x 6" or steel (6" x 6" x 6") with 3/8" diameter hole 1" deep. 2. 1/4" O.D. hard brass or wood ram Note: The loading press is provided with a protective barrier and a remote system of rope and pulley operation to provide operator safety during loading. Only wood and spark-proof (brass) metals are used near the exlosive. CAUTION: Making detonators is hazardous business that can be made safe by taking certain precautions. Operations must be performed slowly and with great care. Cleanliness is important. Dirt in the explosive or containers will greatly increase sensitivity to detonation by impact or shock. If possible the air should be moist. Boil a bucket of water in the room before starting to work if the air is dry. When inserting and removing the ramrod and when carrying primary explosives, use tongs or pliers. If possible, uuse only one hand at a time when handling the primary explosive in the loading process and wear protective goggles at all times. 2. With the arrangement shown on the preceeding page, the pressure applied to the exlosive inside the shell casing will be about 200x the force applied to the end of the lever. That is, a 20 pound weight pulling at at the handle will compress the explosive with a press of 4,000 lbs. of pressure per sq. in. This pressure is required for the best sensitivity of mercury fulminate. A 2.5 gallon bucket of water weighs about 20 lbs. 3. Light a candle and let two drops of wax drop into the bottom of each shell casing before using. 4. Allow the wax to cool, then insert the shell casing into the loading block. 5. Fill the shell casing to a depth of 1/4 in. with RDX or PETN secondary explosive. Gently insert the ram. 6. Compress the explosive slowly and evenly by pulling on the rope until the weight leaves the ground. Remove the ram carefully. 7. Continue the adding and pressing operation until a column of secondary explosive 5/8 inch high has been pressed into the 1 inch long shell casing. 8. Add a small quantity of primary explosive on top of the secondary explosive and gently insert the ram. 9. Continue the adding and pressing operation until an additional 1/4 inch column of primary explosive has been pressed on top of the 5/8 inch column of secondary explosive. 10. Gently compress the remaining 1/8 inch of empty space with an igniter of either black powder or smokeless pistol powder. 11. Seal the top with either tape or wax paper held in place with a small rubber band until ready to use. Note: When inserting the detonator into a selected hand grenade, be careful not to tilt the detonator and let the igniter charge spill out. Instead, place the grenade over the detonator and lower it until the detonator is sealed into place, then invert the genade and fill with explosive. Cigarette Lighter Hand Grenade Sec. II, No. 13 An effective and powerful miniature hand grenade can be made from a Zippo brand cigarette lighter, any homemade explosive and a mini-compound detonator (Sec. II, No. 12). This explosive device can be used either as a hand grenade or a boobytrap. Materials --------- Any powerful homemade explosive, i.e., potassium chlorate/nitrobenzene (Sec. I, No. 32), ammonium nitrate/nitromethane (Sec. I, No. 34), etc. Mini-Compound detonator (Sec. II, No. 12) Black powder (Sec. I, No. 3) Zippo cigarette lighter, approx. 2 1/4" length x 1 1/2" Diam., or larger Copper and brass tubing 9/32" diameter x 12" long hacksaw small mixing bowl epoxy resin Procedure --------- 1. Obtain a zippo lighter with outer case dimensions of approx. 2 1/4 long x 1 1/2" wide x 1/2" deep. Separate the inner lighter mechanism from the outer casing and remove all the cotton wadding. 2. Remove the cotton ignition wick and convert it into a black powder time fuse by the following steps: A. Place a couple of tablespoons of black powder (sec. I, No. 3) into a small mixing bowl and add enough water until it looks like a heavy oil. B. The cotton wick is placed in the oil-like mixture and stirred for 15 minutes so that it becomes saturated with the black powder mix. C. The cotton wick is removed and hung to dry for four hours. D. This mixture fuse was found to have a burning rate of 1.3 seconds per inch. Note: Be sure and test burning time on a similar wick before using. If a new Zippo lighter is used, it is necessary to use the lighter approx. 25 times before disassembling. This will make the lighter appear used and will blacken the cotton ignition wick which will help disguise the black powder time fuse that will be reinserted. 3. Reinsert the cotton wick fuse through the wick hole and leave enough fuse in the ignition chamber so that it can easily bepulled from the igniter. Note: Knot the end of the fuse inside the lighter sothat it won't pull free later when using. 4. Using a hacksaw, cut a one inch length from a 9/32" diameter piece of copper or brass tubing. 5. Insert this one inch tube over the wick hole and use a 1/8" layer of epoxy resin or other strong glue to seal in place. 6. Insert a mini-compound detonator (Sec. II, No. 12) into the holding tube inside the lighter. Caution: The mini-compound detonator is a sensitive and extremely powerful detonator and should be handled carefully at all times. 7. Fill the remaining space to within 1/8" of the bottom with any homemade explosive this manual. Note: The explosive can be loaded in first, and when ready to use, simply insert the detonator. When using potassium chlorate or ammonium nitrate for a base explosive, load the cigarette lighter with either base explosive and insert the detonator. When ready to use, simply pour in the liquid activator of either nitromethane or nitrobenzene. 8. After filling to within 1/8" in. of the bottom with explosive, cut off a 1/8" strip from the original cotton wadding and insert in the bottom of the lighter to complete the disguise. How to Use ---------- 1. To use as a hand grenade, simply pull out a length of fuse and ignite with a separate cigarette lighter or match. 2. To use as a boobytrap, insert the lighter, with a short fuse, into the target area. Shotgun shell impact grenade Sec. II, No. 14 An effective and powerful impact grenade can be made from a 12 gauge shotgun shell, any homemade high explosive and a mini-compound detonator (Sec. II, No. 12). This explosive devise can be used as an impact grenade or as a boobytrap. Materials --------- Any homemade explosive, i.e., potassium chlorate/nitrobenzene (Sec. I, No. 32), ammonium nitrate/nitromethane (Sec. I, No. 34), etc. Mini-compound detonator (Sec. II, NO. 12) 12 gauge shotgun shell wood dowel or steel bar 11/16" in diameter and any length beyond 1/2" hacksaw drill w/ 1/4" bit pieces of cloth, 12" x 12" epoxy resin or strong glue steel ball bearings 3/8" in diameter electrical tape Procedure --------- 1. Either cut off or open up the forward end of any 12 gauge shotgun shell and empty out the shot, wadding, spacer and propellant. Retain the shell casing. 2. In order for the mini-detonator to be over the center of the primer, a detonator guide cylinder has to be made from either a piece of bar steel or a wooden dowel in the following manner: A. Using a hacksaw, cut a 1/2" length of 11/16" steel bar or wooden dowel. B. Drill a 1/4" diameter hole in the center of the 1/2 long wood or metal cylinder. Note: It is preferred that a steel cylinder be used in ot to lend more weight to the base of the shell case. 3. After the guide cylinder is prepared, it is glued in place in the bottom of the shotshell case. Note: Do not place any glue on the primer in the base of the shell casing. 4. The mini-compound detonator (Sec. II, No. 12) is the inserted, open end down, into the guide cylinder and glued in place. Caution: The mini-compound detonator is a sensitive and extremely powerful detonator and should be handled carefully at all times. 5. Fill the remaining space in the shotshell case with any homemade high explosive in this manual. Note: When using potassium chlorate or ammonium nitrate for a base explosive, load the shotshell case with either base explosive. When ready to use, simply pour in the liquid activator of either nitromethane/nitrobenzene. 6. After the top of the shotshell has been resealed, tape a 3/8" steel ball bearing in place over the center of the primer in the base of the shell. 7. Cloth streamers (12" x 1/2") are then taped in place around the shotshell. These streamers lend stability in flight and insure bottom base impact with the ground. 8. As a further refinement, nails can be taped around the shotshell case with ntches, spaced 1/4" apart, down the length of the shell. How to Use ---------- 1. To use as a grenade, simply throw into the target area. 2. To use as a boobytrap, do not attach streamers or the ball bearing. Simply insert the shotshell case into the target area. Platter Charge Sec. II, No. 15 An extremely effective directional charge can be made from a steel pipe cap, any high explosive, and a tin can. This charge is effective against such targets as transformers, generators, fuel storage containers and vehicles. It can be fired horizontally or used as an improvised land mine and fired vertically. Materials --------- Steel pipe cap with a diameter between 1" and 24" Tin can or other similar container with an inside diameter being the same as the steel pipe cap sheet of wood 1" thick steel pipe cap, (between 1 - 2" in diameter) and a piece of pipe, (approx. 2" in length drill with 1/4" bit Solid or liquid high explosive, i.e., nitromethane/ammonium nitrate explosive (Sec. I, No. 34), fertilizer/hydrazine explosive (Sec. I, No. 36), or nitromethane liquid explosive (Sec. I, No. 35) blasting cap Procedure --------- 1. Obtain a steel pipe cap. An ideal diameter would be 6 - 12". However, pipe caps as small as 1" may be used. 2. Locate a coffee can or similar container with an inside diameter the same as the outside diameter of the pipe cap. Remove the lid (do not throw away) and empty the contents of the can and clean it out. 3. Place the pipe cap in the bottom of the can with the concave side facing the bottom of the can. 4. An exact center priming disk must be made from a 1" thick piece of wood in the following manner: A. Using the coffee can lid from step 2 as a template, place it on a sheet of wood 1" thick and mark the outside diameter with a pencil. B. Using a saw, cut the disk out of the sheet of wood. After cutting the disk out, drill a 1/4" hole through the exact center. If this priming disk is to be used as a packing tool for the solid explosive, center sink the 1/4" center hole to fit the head of a 1/4" bolt. Set the disk aside for later use. 5. If a solid explosive is being used. the following constructon technique should be used: A. Using the center priming disk prepared from step 4, a uniform packing tool can be prepared by the addition of a 1/4" nut and bolt, a steel pipe cap and a piece of pipe. B. Carefully pack an amount of solid explosive equal to the weight of the pipe cap around and behind the pipe cap using the packing tool. For example, if the pipe cap weighs five pounds, use five pounds of solid explosive. Note: For this charge to be effective, it is necessary to uniformly pack the explosive behind the pipe cap with no air gaps. C. After the explosive has been loaded into the tin can behind the inverted pipe cap, disassemble the packing tool and place the priming disk over the ompressed explosive. Seal the inside edges with glue, wax, or tar. The discarded pipe handle and cap can be used later to form a pipe hand grenade (Sec. II, No. 1) Note: The wood priming disk prepared in step 4 has three ain uses: as a packing tool for solid explosive, as a lid to keep the explosve from falling out of the conainer, and as a template that insures exact rear center priming of the charge. D. After the priming disk has been sealed in place, insert a blasting cap through the center hole and into the solid explosive to a depth of 3/4". Seal around the cap with glue, wax or tar. 6. When using a liquid explosive, an easier construction method may be used: A. When ready to use, simply pour in an amount of liquid exlosive equal to the weight of the pipe cap and seal in place the wood priming disk prepared instep 4. B. Insert a blasting cap through the center hole and into the liquid explosive to a depth of 3/4". Seal around the blasting cap with glue, wax, or tar. 7. If a coffee can was used in the construction, there should still be sufficient room inside the can for a fuzing mechanism, i.e., a wrist watch delay timer with battery (Sec. VI, No. 4), or a small remote control radio reciever. ----------------------------------- | *&*)+(_)(*_&)(_*&)(*&&)(*&*(&() | | *&(@#*_#() coffee ()&*^)^67^& | | ^&%^$&^$#%^T*T*&%^*&%$&*^%^*&%^ | |---------------------------------| <- false bottom && = bulb initia.| () () () () |&&| /----------\ | <- batteries in series w/ XXX = sealant-> |************XXX|c |XXX***********| wrist watch timer |***************|a |**************| <- wood packing disk |***************|p |**************| |///////////////| |//////////////| |///////////////| |//////////////| |///////////////|__|//////////////| |/////////////////////////////////| |/////////// explosive /////////| |/////////////////////////////////| |//////---------------------\\\\\\| |//////| pipe cap |\\\\\\| |//////| |\\\\\\| |_____/ \_____| || || ||_______________________________|| ----------------------------------- Note: A second disguise can be achieved by inseting a third disk covering the fizing mechanism, sealing around the edges of the disk and then pouring coffee into the can until full. Place the plastic sealing lid over the top of the can to complete the disguise. How to Use ---------- 1. The unique capability of this charge is that it can be fired through a chain link fence and into its target without any loss of effectiveness. At close range the platter will penetrate about one inch of mild steel plate. It is effective at ranges up to 100 feet or more, although at this distance penetration is reduced to about 1/4" of mild steel at best and sighting becomes a problem unless the target is a very large one. 2. Upon detonation, the platter is projected forward at tremendous velocity. The air in front of the platter is compressed and becomes superheated. It is this mass of air, moving at extremely high velovity, that first penetrates the target. The platter follows and may indeed strike the target, but research has shown that the primary destruction effect is created by the compacted high velocity air column. SCIMP (Special Charge Improvised Projectile) charge Sec. II, No. 16 Using materials that are readily available in its construction, this mine will defeat almost any target that is mad-made, i.e., tanks, armored cars, buildings, etc. This charge is four times for effective than any other directional charge, to include shaped and platter charges. This directional charge utilizes two special techniques to achieve its effectiveness; one is sandwiching an explosive charge between two steel plates, and the other involves detonating this charge from all sides at the same time (periphreal detonation). Materials --------- oil filter cap or other similar steel dish No. 6 sheet metal screws, 1" long steel plate, 1/8" thick Solid or liquid high explosive, i.e., fertilizer/nitromethane, fertilizer/hydrazine liquid explosive, and nitromethane liquid explosive wood or styrofoam sheets, 1" thick blasting cap coffee can or other similar container drill with 1/4" bit Procedure --------- 1. Obtain a concave steel dish, 3" to 12" in diameter: for example, by removing the center retaining bolt from any two piece oil filter assy. and using the oil filter cap (an oil filter from a 1951-53 chevy, with a diameter of 5 1/4" is ideal). 2. Plug the bolt hole in the center of the cap with wood, rubber, or cork stopper. 3. Using the oil filter cap as a template, place it on a sheet of steel 1/8" thick and mark the outside diameter with a pencil. 4. Using a hacksaw, cut the disk out of the plate. 5. Repear steps 3 and 4, cutting out two disks from a 1" thick sheet of wood or styrofoam. 6. Take the three disks (one steel and the other two wood or styrofoam) and glue them together with the steel disk on one side. Set aside for later use. 7. Locate a coddee can or similar container with an inside diameter 1/4" to 1/2" larger that the outside diameter of the filter ca. Remove the lid (do not throw away) and empty and clean the can. 8. Using the coffee can lid as a template, repeat steps 3 and 4 on a 1" thick sheet of wood, and after cutting the disk out, drill a 1/4" hole in the exact center and set aside for later use. 9. Place the oil can filter cap in the bottom center of the coffee can and glue in place with the concave cap facing towards the bottom of the cap. | ____ | | ____________/ \___________ | |/ \| |-------------------------------| 10. If a solid explosive is being used, the following construction technique should be used: A. Mark two rings around the inside of the coffee can; one 3" from the bottom of the can, and the second 5 5/8" from the bottom of the can. B. Carefully pack the explosive uniformly around the filter cap until it reaches the 3" mark inside the can. Note: The 1" thick wood disk prepared from step 8 can be used as a uniform packing tool by attaching an improvised handle using a piece of pipe, two pipe caps and a 1/4" nut and bolt. C. After reaching the 3" mark inside the can, place the three later disk assy. (prepared in step 6) on top of the compressed explosive. Center it with the steel disk on the explosive. D. Carefully pack the explosive between the inside edge of the can and the edge of the three layer disk assy. until the explosive level is even with the top of the disk. E. Carefully pack an additional 1/2" layer of explosive on top of the last styrofoam or wood disk. This layer should reach the second ring marked inside the can. Note: Again the wood disk/pipe packing tool can be used to compress the remaining explosive on top of the charge. F. Disassemble the wood disk/pipe packing tool by removing the center nut and bolt that holds the two together. Save and use the pipe for a future pipe hand grenade (Sec. II, No. 1). G. Place the 1" thick wood packing disk on top of the explosive contained inside the can and seal with glue, wax or tar. H. When ready to use, insert a 1/4" blasting cap through the center hole in the wood disk and into the 1/2" layer of explosive. Note: The wood disk prepared from step 8 has three main uses; a packing tool, a lid to prevent the explosive from falling out of the container, and a template that insures rear center priming of the charge. 11. When using a liquid explosive, a slightly different and easier construction method is used: A. Mark two rings around the inside of the can; one 5 1/8" from the bottom of the can and the second 6 5/8 from the bottom of the can. B. Place the top of the three layer disk assy. at the level of the first ring marked inside the can and secure in place with four No. 6 sheet metal screws spaced wvery 90 degrees around the outside of the coffee can and screwed into the center of the center disk assy. Since the disk assy. is smaller than the inside diameter of the coffee can, it can be held in place by inserting 1/4" wood dowels between the can and the assy. When the four supporting screws have been screwed into place, the wooden dowels can be removed. C. Place the remaining 1" thick wood disk, prepared from step 8, at the level of the second ring marked inside the can and secure in place with four more No. 6 sheet metal screws spaced every 90 degrees around the outside of the can. Seal the inside edges with wax, glue or tar. D. When ready to use, simply pour the liquid explosive through the center hole until fill. Insert a blasting cap through the hole and into the 1/2" layer of liquid explosive. Seal around the hole and blasting cap with glue, wax, or tar. 12. If a coffee can was used in the construction, there should still be sufficient room inside the can for a fuzing mechanism, i.e., a watch delay timer with batteries (Sec. IV, No. 4), or a small remote control radio reciever. 13. After the fuzing mechanism has been inserted, the original metal lid that was removed and set aside ealier is now glued inside the plastic sealing lid that comes with most coffee cans and snapped back in place on top of the can. The whole charge then resembles an ordinary coffee can. plastic lid | |------------------------------------------| | *&&&*^%&&*&%^*&^**&^%%^&*%%^*&&%^**&^^%% | | ()*(*((^*&&%^ coffee *&%$%$*&%&**(&*$ | | (_*(_)*&^&%^**&^(()*__)(*(*&^_*&^(^&%&%^ | |------------------------------------------|<-false bottom ()= batteries | () () () () |&&| ----\\\\\\\\ |<-batteries in &&= electric |+__________________+|c |+_----////////___+| series, clothes += seaant |+ |a | +| pin delay |+___________________|p |_________________+| _ |//\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ | |\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\//| | 1/2" explosive |\\///////////////// |__|////////////////\\| - on top of disc |\\--------------------------------------//| |\\- -\\| |//--------------------------------------//| <- no space |\\--------------------------------------\\| between metal screw ***** ***** metal screw |//--------------------------------------//| |\\@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@\\| <- steel plate |//////////////////////////////////////////| |//////////////////////////////////////////| |//////////////////////////////////////////| |\\\\\\ "\" and "/" = explosive //////| |//////////////////////////////////////////| |//////////////////////////////////////////| | /---\ | | /------------------------------------\ | | | oil cap | | | -------------------------------------- | ============================================ Note: A second disguise can be achieved by inserting a third disk covering the fuzing mechanism, sealing around the edges of the disk and the pouring coffee back into the can until full. Place the plastic sealing lid over the top of the can to complete the disguise. How to Use ---------- 1. The SCIMP charge should be used when direct access to the target it not possible, i.e., under or beside a roadway or hanging on a fence looking into the target area. 2. The applications are very similar to a platter charge with the exception that the SCIMP charge has far greater penetration ability of hard targets at long distances than does the platter charge. The SCIMP charge described here can penetrate 1" thick steel at 50 years. Note: The SCIMP charge relies on a super-heated, rod-like projectile traveling at ultra high velocity to destroy its target. Typist Note: I, the Mad Cracker, am not going to type every damn picture in the book. If you would like to build a "pipe pistol" I suggest you buy the books. Unless you totally understand the instructions, I would not consider to attempt these without pictures, as they are dangerous enough when done with the pictures. Pipe Pistol for 9mm Ammunition Sec. III, No. 1 A 9mm pistol can be made from 1/4" steel, gas or water pipe and fittings. Materials --------- 1/4" nominal size water pipe, 4-6 inches long with threaded ends 1/4"solid pipe plug Two (2) steel pipe couplings Metal strap, roughly 1/8" x 1/4" x 5" Two (2) elastic bands Flat head nail, 6D or 8D (approx. 1/16" in diameter) Two (2) wood screws #8 wood 8" x5" x 1" drill 1/4" wood or metal rod, approx. 8" long Procedure --------- 1. Carefully inspect pipe and fittings. A. Make sure that there are NO cracks or other flaws in the pipe or fittings. B. Check inside diameter of pipe using a 9mm cartridge as a gauge. The bullet should closely fit into the pipe without forcing but the cartridge case SHOULD NOT fit into pipe. C. Outside diameter of pipe MUST NOT be less that 1 1/2 times bullet diameter (.536 in; 1.37 cm) 2. Drill a 9/16" diameter hole 3/8" into one coupling to remove the thread. Note: Drilled section should fit tightly over smooth section of the pipe. 3. Drill a 25/64" diameter hole 3/4" into pipe. Use cartridge as a gauge; when cartridge is inserted into the pipe, the base of the case should be even with the end of the pipe. Thread coupling tightly onto pipe, drilled end first. 4. Drill a hole in the center of the pipe plug just large enough for the nail to fit through. Note: THE HOLE MUST BE CENTERED IN PLUG. 5. Push nail through plug until head of nail is flush with square end. Cut nail off at other end 1/16" away from plug. Round off end of nail wih file. 6. Bend metal strap to "U" shape and drill holes for wood screws. File two small notches at top. 7. Saw or otherwise shape 1" thick hardwood into stock. |- length must be 2" greater than length of unassembled pipe -| - | <---2 ins.---> |-------------------------------| - | |-1 in.-|------------------ | | 1in. | / | | 6 | / --------- - i | / ----------------------------/ n | / / s | / <-2 in. -> / | / / | / / | / / | / / - ---------------- 8. Drll a 9/16" diameter hole through the stock. The center of the hole should be approx. 1/2" from the top. 9. Slide the pipe through this hole and attach front coupling. Note: If 9/16" drill is not available, cut a "V" groove in the top of the stock and tape pipe securely in place. 10. Position metal strap on stock so that top will hit the head of the nail. Attach to stock with wood screws on each side. 11. String elastic bands from front coupling to notch on each side of the strap. SAFETY CHECK- TEST FIRE PISTOL BEFORE HAND FIRING 1. Locate a barrier such as a stone wall or large tree which you can stand behid in case the pistol ruptures when fired. 2. Mount pistol solidly to a table or other rigid support at least ten feet in front of the barrier. 3. Attach a cord to the firing strap on the pistol. 4. Holing the other end of the cord, go behind the barrier. 5. Pull cord so that the firing strap is held back. 6. Release the cord to fire the pistol. (If pistol does not fire, shorten the elastic bands or increase their number) Note: Fire at least five rounds behind the barrier and then re-inspect the pistol be